Green Arrow Environmental Services
(480) 304-5611

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc?
Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc is an ADEQ (Arizona Department of Environmental Quality) qualified and certified septic inspector to perform septic inspections and septic certifications for ownership transfers when a property containing an Onsite Wastewater Treatment Facility (OSWTF), commonly referred to as a septic system is sold or transferred. A septic system generally consists of two components: the septic tank and the disposal or absorption area. The septic tank can be made of concrete (precast), fiberglass or polyethylene. The disposal area has many synonymous terms which include absorption area, drainfield, leaching area or leach bed, etc. This area can consist of a seepage pit, trench, bed or other approved method.
Why do I need to inspect my septic tank?
As of July 1, 2006, according to Arizona Administrative Code, A.C.C. R18-9-A316, any person selling or transferring ownership of any property that is serviced by an onsite wastewater treatment facility (conventional or alternative), must retain a qualified inspector to inspect the facility (septic system) within six months prior to transferring ownership of the property. Previously only newer systems were required to be inspected. With the adoption of this new rule, ALL septic systems are required to be inspected BEFORE ownership (sale or transfer) of the property occurs. In order to accomplish this, we are here to help you through the entire inspection and transfer process to help you ensure that you are in compliance.
What’s involved with a septic inspection?
First, the buyer or seller will choose the company or inspector to hire and pay to perform the septic inspection who will provide the certification for the transfer of ownership of the septic permit on the property. Next, the septic inspection involves properly obtaining the documentation needed to accurately identify the septic system and permits on the property through a septic system public record request. This is generally done through the county in which the property is located and the inspector or qualified company will assist you with the proper method of requesting this documentation.
How long will it take to respond to my emergency?
Emergencies are unique because they are never convenient for both parties involved. However, we do our best to respond anywhere in the Phoenix metro area within 2 hours of dispatch. To prevent future emergencies, ask us about our regularly schedule maintenance programs which helps save you time and money.
Examples of emergency calls
Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc. has experience in handling all types of situations and emergencies. We have multiple pump or vacuum trucks for liquid removal, sewer machines to clean drain lines due to clogs, back ups, collapsed lines and roots. We also have sewer inspection cameras which are extremely helpful to video the inside of the pipes to identify and document the cause of the problem.

With our experience and response to all types of sewer and grease back ups and overflow emergencies, we have acquired quite the gallery of photos which show how equipped we are to handle your call. Below are some pictures of emergency service calls that we have received. If you are in property management, a restaurant owner or manager, or anyone else that is responsible for overseeing the cleaning of your grease trap or interceptor, do not fall prey to these expensive clean up and emergency situations. Call us to schedule a free estimate for our preventative maintenance services.

Below, we responded to a call from an apartment complex that was unable to use at least 50 parking stalls due to a large amount of rainfall in a short amount of time. All the water retention basins were full and overflowing and were not able to handle anymore rainfall. Green Arrow Environmental responded and worked for over eight hours hauling off all the standing water in the parking lot so the tenants could resume using their parking spots.




With most of these emergencies, the cause of the urgent request for service was mainly due to lack of maintenance. With that being said, most emergencies are preventable had the grease trap been pumped more regularly, the septic tank cleaned more frequently or a drain or sewer line been cleaned and maintained. It’s the common case of – Out of sight out of mind.

We have also been on emergency service calls where not only was the cost to do a grease clean up costly for the client when we handed them our invoice for our services, but other passersby had driven through an overflow of a grease trap and came back to the owner of the establishment and requested reimbursement for having to wash their car and shampoo their carpets because the grease got all over the place. Thankfully we have not run into an issue where anyone got injured.

In the picture above, the pressure under the lids caused the lids to be lifted up (the above picture had the lids manually removed) but it came up just enough for the maintenance crew to recognize they had a serious problem and an overflow that began into the parking lot. Don’t get stuck in this situation. Call us at 480-304-5611 to set up a regularly schedule service.

This is a picture of a small grease trap inside the kitchen area by the three compartment sink. Some of them are installed below ground (like the one above) or above ground. Either way, these types of grease traps have a small capacity of about 30-50 gallons and are very temperamental. That translates into more attention to service (at least monthly) and maintenance because it does not require much to have this type of grease trap overflow and cause a hazard to employees walking around in the kitchen.

This is an old drain line caked with grease! This establishment had multiple problems, month after month with back ups of their grease trap and sewer line into the kitchen. Their plumber continued to come out and snake out the line but it only pushed the clog and grease further down the line. the build up continued and the owner finally decided to change out all the old cast iron piping and have it replaced with plastic pipes. This is what was discovered when one of the sections of piping was removed. A regular scheduled cleaning with hydrojetting could have opened the pipes back to the original diameter and saved the owner thousands of dollars from doing a line replacement.

What is a septic system?
A septic system is an underground, self contained, onsite waste water treatment system. There are two (2) components to a septic system; 1) the septic tank, which is water tight and the 2) disposal area or leaching area (also referred to as leach lines, leach pit, drain field, soil absorption area, etc.). The septic tank is connected to the house or building through a main sewer line that is generally 4 inches in diameter. Outside of the home, usually within a few feet of the foundation are sewer clean outs that allow a plumber to rooter or “snake out” the main sewer line if it becomes clogged. Many older homes unfortunately do not have these clean outs or access to the main sewer line. Irregardless, it is not possible to clean the septic tank through these sewer clean outs. All waste water (grey water from sinks, showers, laundry and dishwasher, etc. – black water from toilets) flow through the main sewer line underneath the house and then outside into the septic tank.

The septic tank, if up to code will be located at least 10 feet away from the house or building. Once the waste water enters the septic tank, the natural enzymes & bacteria inside our bodies are released when we use the bathroom and will help break down the septage matter inside the tank. There are three (3) layers inside a septic tank; 1) sludge, which is heavier than water (food – garbage disposal matter and other heavy material) which sits on the bottom as decayed, odor causing matter, 2) clear water or clarified waste water – well, it’s not always clear, but you do not want the floating matter in the water to go further downstream to the disposal area where it will causing clogging and back ups, 3) scum layer, which is anything lighter than water and floats to the top. This could be grease, plastics, toilet paper, wipes and other matter. Pumping the septic tank is the only proper and efficient way to completely remove the sludge and scum layers from a septic tank. I have seen more cases where the sludge layer has been so deep that it has taken hours to properly clean the inside of the tank only to find out that the sludge had caused accelerated deterioration of the septic tank. The bad news in a case like this is the tank would need to be replaced immediately to prevent exfiltration or leakage out of the tank into the ground outside the tank. Clean up of this level could result in bioremediating the soil and possibly hefty fines from the County. This is why it is so important to pump out your septic tank every 3 to 5 years.

As the septic tank begins to fill up with all of this “stuff – well, doo doo” and undergo its natural separation process, the tank becomes “full.” That is, it has a static liquid level or water line which it maintains in order to function properly. A normal water line or liquid level is just below the the sewer line (inlet pipe) coming into the tank and the sewer line (outlet pipe) going out of the tank to the drainage or disposal area (see picture below). As waste water enters the tank, the liquid level rises slightly and pushes the effluent out to the disposal area. If the level is higher or lower than this there may be a serious issue! If it is too high, there could be a clog, the sludge is too deep and blocking the outlet line to the disposal area, there could be an effluent filter that needs to be cleaned, etc. If the level is lower than this, it could mean the tank has been compromised and leaking into the subsurface causing contamination. Either way, your system requires immediate attention.

DOs and DON'Ts
Below is a list of DO’s and DONT’s. It is not all inclusive of everything you should or should not do, but it will help you understand what you can do to care for your septic system. The basic rule: IF YOU DON’T EAT IT, DON’T FLUSH IT!


Do conserve water – laundry, showers & dishwasher
Do use only “septic safe” toilet paper, laundry detergent, etc.
Do repair leaking faucets and toilets immediately
Do use low volume flush toilets and water conserving shower heads
Do limit your automatic water softener regeneration cycle frequency
Do limit the use of your garbage disposal – put it in the garbage
Do direct gutter downspouts away from your system
Do grade your yard so surface runoff is directed away from your system
Do minimize waste – Only toilet paper and poop should be flushed down the toilet
Do tell contractors you are on a septic system
Do pump and inspect septic your tank more often than not


Don’t overload the system with high volumes of water
Don’t put anything down the drain that could be disposed of some other way (i.e., in the trash can)
Don’t drive over the drainage area, building over it or compacting the soil in any way
Don’t wait for the system to back up or have problems – care and maintain the system to avoid paying for costly repairs
Do not enter a septic tank without proper ventilation – call a professional – that would be us!
Do not flush the following items into your septic system: bleaches, caustic cleaners, coffee grounds, disposable diapers, baby wipes or any other type of wipe, sanitary napkins, cigarette butts, fats, grease and oils, disinfectants, photographic chemicals, pills and unused medication, dental floss, Q-tips, kitty litter, tampons (plastic tips should be thrown in the garbage), condoms, paper towels, pesticides, other chemical wastes, paints, varnishes, waste oils, poisons, thinners, medicinal needles, plastic bags & more
If by chance the above items do enter your septic tank, it is a very, very, very, very, very good idea to have it pumped and removed so that it does not damage the enzymes or bacteria inside of your tank.

Maintaining proper care for your septic system is vital to the life expectancy of the tank and drainage area. The better you care for and have your tank and drainage area (when needed) cleaned out or pumped, the longer the system will last and the less issues you will have. With the advanced systems that we have nowadays, some repairs can be several thousand dollars!

What is the cost to pump out a septic tank?
The cost for having the septic tank pumped out can range from $250 to $450 (budgeted cost every 3 to 5 years!) depending on the size of the tank and work involved to find/locate and access the septic tank in order to clean it properly. The basic rule here: IT IS CHEAPER TO CLEAN AND MAINTAIN THE SEPTIC TANK THAN PAY FOR REPAIRS. If you have waited too long (over 5 years) to have your septic tank cleaned out, you are setting yourself up for a failed component of your septic system and will experience a back up. This can be encountered by water entering the home through the lowest point in the home or establishment. This is usually a shower or tub. Often the system will make a gurgling sound when the toilets are flushed or when the clothes washer releases the wash water. Call us today to have your septic tank cleaned out immediately if you have or are experiencing these symptoms with your septic system.
Where is the septic tank?
The septic tank is usually buried underground from a minimum of 1 foot and up to as much as 5 feet deep or more. This is to allow for proper drainage inside the main sewer line we mentioned earlier. After the septic tank is installed there can be risers or extensions that may be installed to bring the access to the septic tank closer to the surface for cleaning, maintenance and inspection. Most commonly this can be in the form of a 4-6 inch pipe that comes up vertically from the tank near or at the surface. Other times, there can be an 18-24 inch concrete riser installed on the tank. Depending on the method, these access points may be lost underground after the yard is graded or landscaped. Once this happens, many homeowners worry about the cost to find or locate the septic tank or it even becomes “out of sight, out of mind” and therefore cleaning the tank gets put off or not done at all. In some cases, risers or extensions are not added at all. If this is the case, it will be necessary to excavate or dig down to the top of the tank and remove the lids in order to properly clean the inside. To get an idea of how deep your septic tank may be buried, open or unscrew the sewer clean out caps near your house (if you have them) and shine a flashlight inside. Take a tape measure or other measuring device and carefully send it in the pipe. At the bottom of the pipe where it meets the main sewer line it will bend. Stop here and bring the measuring device back up. This is the approximate depth. If there is standing water in these pipes, it may be time to have the tank pumped out. PLEASE PROPERLY CLEAN & DISINFECT YOUR MEASURING APPARATUS AFTER USE.

To properly clean out the septic tank, it must be located or found as mentioned above. There are a couple of methods that are used to find septic tanks. Each varies in additional price or cost to the homeowner depending on the equipment or labor involved. In some cases, the septic permit documentation will have a plot map (but not always) of the house and the location of the septic tank. In every plot that I have experienced or seen, it is only as good as the person who drew it! That being said, sometimes they are not very reliable. Other methods for locating the septic tank will be with the use of electronic/radio detection equipment. The technician will use the sewer clean outs or the plumbing vent on the roof and send a cable with a tip that will emit a radio signal back to a wand or locator. This is a very accurate method and in some cases more costly but well worth the money (typical cost can be around $200). Other methods can be with the use of soil or water probes. These are metal-like, typically with a metal T-handle and are pushed into the ground until hitting the top of the septic tank which is concrete (most cases – can also be fiberglass or polyethylene). The water probe is simply hooked to the hose bib and sprays high pressure water into the ground until the top of the tank is found. Either method is effective but one may encounter the same or higher cost than electronically locating the tank which is more accurate and doesn’t take as much time. The cost to the homeowner is typically done by the hour (one hour minimums) rather than flat rate. Hourly costs could range from $75-$125 per hour. In most cases the tank can take an hour or less to find. I have been called out to jobs where the homeowner has paid for the probing job and ended up with over 900 holes in their yard before the tank was found! It looked like a mix between a battle field and a rodent issue.

What do you do once you find the tank?
Well, now that the tank has been located or found, it should be determined how deep one must dig in order to get to the tank. A good deciding factor was mentioned above by unscrewing the caps off the clean outs and shining a flashlight inside and looking at the depth. This is a pretty good indicator. The only margin of error is if the yard is sloped, change in terrain or if risers have been installed to bring access closer to the surface. The only way to find that out is by….tada…digging. Yes, this is why we make the big bucks – NOT! No one likes to dig, especially here in Arizona in the middle of the summer at 115 degrees!!!! This is where a lot of the cost to clean the septic tank plays a major role. If the septic tank is only buried a foot or so deep, it’s an easy dig – unless there is caliche (pronounced hard as concrete but it’s dirt)! In other areas where it is rocky or there is extremely hard soil, almost concrete like, the price will go up dramatically. Typical costs for a shovel dig can run about $75 per hour (that is first to access the tank and then put all the dirt and yard back together – minimum usually of 2 hours). If a deeper or more involved excavation is involved, costs can run at $125 per hour for use of mechanical equipment, such as the one shown below.

When digging or excavating to get access to the septic tank there are several things you are looking for. Either you will run into a riser before you get to the top of the tank or you will be digging until you get to the top of the tank, which generally will be concrete. If it were my house, I would always use the biggest access to clean the tank. There is better mobility to swing the hose and clean the inside of the tank and get all of the sludge removed. However, if you do have the risers that come up to the surface, you have every incentive to clean more frequently. There is no guess-work or investigation to be done as described above. The access is already there – get it cleaned! If you let it go too long between cleanings it is more difficult to do a better cleaning through the risers especially if you are using a 3 inch hose in a 4-6 inch riser. You get the idea.

If you end up digging down until you get to the top of the tank, what you are looking for depends on the age of the tank and year it was installed. Newer tanks have two large 24 inch round access holes (don’t say that too fast) and there are two (2) chambers inside the tank. Older tanks may have access towards the front (inlet side) of the tank or towards the middle. The lid or access to the tank may be as small as 4 x 4 square inches, 12 x 12 square inches or have an end that slides off (these are back busters)! While you are digging around you may run into some rusty rod iron hooks. Don’t get too excited. Some of these were used to hook chains and hoist the septic tank into its place, while others may be a handle to remove a lid. If you run into one of these hooks, broaden your dig and look for what would appear to be lines in the concrete or the outline of the lid you need to remove for us to clean the inside of the septic tank.

The lids or access ports to the septic tank are tapered or have a lip on them to prevent the lid from falling inside the tank. From the photos above, you can see a good chisel and hammer is best to remove these lids. CAUTION: Never attempt to open the lid. There could be highly toxic fumes or gases inside the tank. Always call a professional at Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc. @ 480-304-5611. Besides, it’s not like it is Christmas morning and you just can’t wait to open your present (septic tank). This is a septic tank – your crap lives in there! I think you can wait to have a professional from Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc. to open and remove the lid properly. Besides, we’re immune to the smell – NOT!

After the professional arrives, the technician will carefully remove the lid and set it to the side. They will usually either agitate the scum layer inside with a water hose, special tool or shovel. This breaks up the scum layer and also allows the technician to assess the frequency of the cleaning based on how much scum and sludge are discovered inside the tank and when it was pumped out last, if at all. In every case, the longer it goes between cleanings, the worse off the inside will be and damage has surely already been done to the drainage area because the clear water area described above has been decreased markedly and particles have entered the drainage area and begun to clog the piping and drainage system. Up to this point, if you have encountered all of the above steps, you have probably taken excellent notes of the location of the septic tank with pictures, drawings or both.

How do you clean the septic tank?
Now that the lid has been removed, the cleaning process finally can begin – YEAH! Our protocol is to clean out the entire contents of the septic tank and use a water hose to spray down and clean the inside. The time it takes to clean out the inside of the septic tank is dependent upon the size of the tank and also the condition and thickness of the contents inside. Septic tanks can range in size from roughly 500 gallons to as large as 3,000 gallons. We usually allow a minimum of 45 minutes on the job for cleaning but can take up to an hour an a half and sometimes more. We have experienced jobs in the past, where the homeowner had waited about 16 years to clean their septic tank. It took about an hour to get the lid off – it was fused and bonded to the concrete tank. The lid had to be drilled out (additional cost) and once we got the lid off, the scum layer was so thick, deep and crusted that we had to get a pressure washer to literally “blast the crap” out of it and liquify the contents so it could be properly pumped and cleaned. Overall we were there for over three hours and then the contents would not be accepted at a local water treatment plant. This added another three hours of drive time into the job because the load had to be disposed of elsewhere. Did I mention it is less costly to have your septic tank pumped out every 3 to 5 years?

After the cleaning of the inside of the septic tank, we will do a visual inspection of the inside. We check the baffles and piping inside the tank, look for any cracking, roots or other invasive material. Upon completion of work you will receive an invoice for the agreed upon price and any adjustments to the work performed and agreed upon at or before the time of service. We will also note the number of gallons removed from the septic tank for your reference in the future.

What do you do with the septic tank contents?
This is often one of the most asked questions. There are a number of disposal facilities in the Phoenix metro area. All of them charge us (nope, it’s not free for us) for disposing of your non hazardous liquid waste. There are significant costs that are involved to process the sewage at a water treatment plant and all loads or contents are tested before disposal is allowed. There is also a manifest that is filled out and provided to the disposal facility by the driver which is to certify the contents, the source and amount of waste transported to the facility.

As mentioned above, it is extremely important to have your septic tank cleaned out more often than not to avoid or postpone expensive repairs. A good septic cleaning is ALWAYS less expensive than a major repair or a fix for a failing septic system. Call us today to schedule your septic tank cleaning at 480-304-5611.

What is a grease trap or grease interceptor?
First off, Grease Interceptor and Grease Traps are terms that are generally used interchangeably, however grease interceptors technically reference the larger outside one to three or more chamber type interceptors with manhole lids holding 350 gallons or more. We have experience cleaning large interceptors up to 25,000 gallons! Grease Traps on the other hand reference the smaller type which is usually found underneath or near the three compartment sinks of the kitchen area. For the sake of keeping things simple, many choose to refer to both contraptions as a grease trap.

Grease Traps were designed to prevent the high volume of fats, oils and grease (FOG) at commercial eating establishments from clogging up main sewer lines that flow to waste water treatment facilities (OSWTF). The more volume of fats, oils and grease that enter the treatment plants, the costlier it is for your water district to treat, process and make available reusable, quality drinking water.

The grease trap is designed to slow the flow of the grease and “traps” it inside this contraption to be later pumped out and removed by a licensed and professional liquid waste hauler with the use of a vacuum or pump truck, hence we are often times called pumpers. Each municipality dictates the frequency the grease trap needs to be cleaned or pumped out.

How often do I need to have the grease trap cleaned or pumped out?
The grease trap cleaning or pumping frequency can range from biweekly, monthly or even quarterly. Much of this depends on the volume of the establishment or based on an inspection from when the last pump out occurred to when a certain amount of grease enters the grease trap and becomes a threat of entering the main lines of the city waste water infrastructure. It is our experience that the small grease traps inside need cleaning every month. The grease trap is generally made of metal. As we all know, water in a metal box leads to corrosion and deterioration of the metal. Add all the cleaning agents that are used in a commercial kitchen to wash dishes, etc. and over time the bottoms and sides of these grease traps begin to leak which can cause costly repairs to install and new grease trap but also may require the soil that has been contaminated underneath to be bioremediated (aka expensive)! We have also experienced some establishments that encounter foul odors and smells if the grease trap is not cleaned frequently. Cleaning the grease trap frequently can reduce odors and keep customers around so they don’t experience the foul sewer gas odors at an inconvenient time. For the interceptors, the general rule is that they are required to be pumped or cleaned out every 90 days (quarterly) or four times a year. Some establishments may have to do a more frequent pump out than the required quarterly cleaning due to excess grease build up, sewer odors or both. Basic rule here: small grease traps need pumping monthly and grease interceptors require pumping quarterly.

Below are examples of a grease interceptor (left) and a grease trap (right) that were backing up due to infrequent cleanings. These types of grease trap cleanings required costly emergency pricing and a huge inconvenience to the establishment and its patrons. In some cases when a grease trap back up is so bad, it may be necessary to close down the restaurant until proper functionality to the grease trap is restored. In addition, the smell and odor from cleaning the grease trap during busy serving times causes most patrons to leave and not want to return to your establishment.

How much does it cost to have my grease trap pumped or cleaned out?
The cost for grease trap pumping really depends on a couple of factors – size, location and access being the main factors. If you are not currently set up on a regularly scheduled service, call us today at 480-304-5611 to set up a maintenance cleaning schedule. It is always more expensive to have the grease trap pumped or cleaned on an emergency or after hour basis. Small grease traps are generally priced at a flat rate price where a grease interceptor is priced based on a per gallon basis due to their larger size. We do our best to set all our customers on a regularly cleaning schedule to keep our fuel costs manageable. Sometimes with rising fuel prices, it is not uncommon for our industry to charge a fuel surcharge or trip charge for cleaning a grease trap.
What is pressure washing?
Pressure washing or power washing is used when a garden hose or other spraying apparatus does not produce enough water power, pressure or velocity in order to clean a particular surface, area or product. Pressure washing uses either a water tank or direct water source that is fed into a pump, through a hand held spray wand and then through a spray tip. The type of tip used while pressure washing can have a dramatic impact on the amount of time it takes to clean or power wash something but the type of tip can also have a negative impact on the surface or product you are cleaning. Pressure washing can be done with both hot and cold water.

CAUTION: Pressure washing can be very dangerous and even deadly if not used properly.

What are cooling towers?
Cooling towers are a subcategory of the HVAC cooling or air conditioning system at hospitals, large office buildings, power plants, and schools, etc. Properly cleaning and maintaining a very expensive cooling tower can increase cooling efficiency within the system and also remove and clean hard water build up and sludge that can often be found within a cooling tower.

For the past three years, Green Arrow Environmental Services, Inc. has helped many commercial and industrial clients with semi annual and annual cleanings of their cooling tower systems. Our services include pressure washing the outside and inside of all the major components including the fill material to remove all hard water build up and debris that gets caught inside these panels. Once everything is pressure washed clean, we utilize our vacuum trucks to pump out and remove all the debris that has been removed and also the sludge build up inside the cooling tower basin. Removing the sludge will provide cleaner cooling water to the system and more efficient flow and cooling results.





With all the media or fill all pressure washed cleaned and debris removed, most of it ends up on the inside of the cooling tower. Since we own and operate all our own pressure washing equipment and vacuum or pump trucks, we next vacuum out all the heavy sediment and sludge from the inside of the cooling towers. The pictures below illustrate before and after pictures of how clean we can get the cooling towers so your facility can be up and running and cooling the water more efficiently thereby saving on utility costs to run these expensive cooling systems.





More before and after pictures of the media or fill inside a cooling tower.

What’s the difference between a rooter and a sewer jetter (hydrojetting)?
The jetter will always clean the inside of the pipe, leaving no residue or particles other waste within the pipe to get hung up or snagged on causing another blockage. A rooter machine generally reaches clogs within 75 feet (longer cables are available, but not always with the plumber) and will never “clean” the pipe, but it will and in some cases only temporarily open the clog so the pipes can drain or push the clog further downstream. And yes, there is the cost. Jetting will always be more expensive but well worth the money. In rare cases, a rooter machine and a jetter may have to be used together to clear a line. A sewer camera like the one mentioned above can be used to verify and validate the difference of the inside of the pipe after the rooter or jetter has been run through the pipes.

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Green Arrow Environmental Services

Car Wash Trap Cleaning

Cooling Tower Cleaning & Maintenance

Drain Line Cleaning (Rooter & Hydro Jetting)

Dry Wells & Catch Basin Cleaning

Flood Control & Water Removal

Grease Trap Pumping

Grease Trap Inspections

Septic Tank Treatment

Sewer Ejector Pit Cleaning

Sewer Lift Station Cleaning

Grit Trap Cleaning

Laundry/Lint Trap Cleaning

Odor Abatement

Oil Sponge Distributor

Oil Water Separator Cleaning

Pressure Washing

Septic Excavation

Septic System Locating Services

Septic Tank Pumping & Maintenance

Septic Inspections & Certifications